On our recent trip to the Northwest, Husband and I explored a bit of Washington after we absorbed the flavor of Seattle. In Yakima, I had the best pan-fried oysters I’ve ever tasted, while Walla Walla lingers in my mind as a charming small city where we came upon a cleverly staged political statement.
This picture provides a segue to tell you about a walking tour we took in Pendleton, Oregon that included a 19th century bordello. But first, I’ll let you in on our secret of successful vacation taking: Put all your effort into the planning; once you’re on the road, improvise. The reason Yakima, Walla Walla, and Pendleton found their way onto our itinerary was because we liked how their names sounded when we studied the state map in our Seattle hotel room. On more than one vacation, we have driven a hundred miles for a cool-sounding town. We’ve never been disappointed.
Including Pendleton on the route this trip was my idea. I thought Husband would enjoy visiting the Pendleton Mills and factory store since he’s in love with their woolen blankets and clothing. It so happens I’m allergic to wool. I’m also allergic to cats. As a child, I thought cats were made of wool since they both made me itch. Obviously, I was a city kid.
When we married and moved in together, Husband brought with him several classic woolen blankets, but the cat had sadly already taken a dirt nap. If I were present for the burial, I might have suggested a lovely woolen shroud for the beloved creature, but Husband hadn’t met me yet so I couldn’t offer an opinion.
Aside from visiting the Pendleton Woolen Mills, where Husband purchased a terrific hat and vest, we took the Pendleton Underground Tour, a major tourist attraction along with the annual Round-Up Rodeo for which we arrived too late. Actually, we were about 160 years too late for Pendleton’s old west heyday when it was settled by travelers on the Oregon Trail in the 1840s.
The underground tunnels in Pendleton were dug by the town’s Chinese population between 1870 and 1930 and originally covered over 70 miles underneath the city. Sundown Laws at the time required the Chinese to be off the streets after dark or face severe punishment or death. In addition to housing the persecuted Asians, the tunnels were home to many businesses such as ice plants, butcher shops, Chinese laundries, whorehouses, drinking establishments, and opium dens.
There is no mistaking what the main entertainment in Pendleton was during its early days. Having a population of 3,000 didn’t stop it from supporting 32 saloons and 18 bordellos. In fact, our tour included a boarding house-type building with a long wooden staircase leading from the heavy front door upstairs to the Cozy Rooms where the working girls … worked. And work it must have been. In small, airless rooms sparsely furnished with rough beds and chamber pots, there was very little to recommend their profession as one of choice. Even without a single cat or woolen blanket in sight, you could feel the itch.
Waiting their turn to romp in old Pendleton
underground tour display
Travelnote: Many thanks to Dave’s Diner and Brew in Seatac, Washington for mailing my favorite scarf back to me. After that giant glass of chardonnay, I’m glad it’s the only piece of clothing I left in your booth.